Vitale Barberis Canonico: 370 Years of Italian Wool Excellence at TS Custom Suits
Share
In the world of luxury textiles, few names carry as much weight and history as Vitale Barberis Canonico. At TS Custom Suits, we're honored to partner with the world's oldest wool mill—a company that has been perfecting the art of fabric creation for an astounding 370 years. When you choose a bespoke suit crafted from VBC fabric, you're wearing history, wearing excellence, and wearing the accumulated wisdom of nearly four centuries of Italian textile mastery.
A Legacy That Spans Centuries: The VBC Story
The Vitale Barberis Canonico story begins in 1663—a date so distant that it predates the founding of the United States by over a century. In that year, the Barberis family established a wool mill in Pratrivero, a small town in the Biella region of Piedmont, Italy. This wasn't just any location—Biella had already earned a reputation as the center of Italian textile production, thanks to pure alpine water, skilled artisans, and proximity to wool trading routes.
What makes VBC's longevity even more remarkable is that the company remains family-owned and operated after 370 years and fifteen generations of the Barberis family. In an era when most historic companies have been acquired by conglomerates or disappeared entirely, VBC's continuity of family ownership represents something extraordinary: an unbroken chain of knowledge, values, and commitment to excellence passed from generation to generation.
From Local Mill to Global Leader
While VBC began as a local wool mill serving the Biella region, the company's ambition and quality gradually expanded their reputation throughout Italy, then Europe, and eventually worldwide. By the 19th century, VBC fabrics were being exported across Europe, clothing nobility and distinguished gentlemen who demanded the finest materials available.
The 20th century brought both challenges and opportunities. Two world wars disrupted production, but each time, the Barberis family rebuilt and modernized. The post-war boom years saw VBC invest heavily in technology and capacity, transforming from a traditional mill into a modern manufacturing powerhouse without losing sight of the craftsmanship that had defined them for centuries.
Today, Vitale Barberis Canonico is the world's largest producer of fine wool fabrics—a remarkable achievement that proves that heritage and scale can coexist when quality remains the priority. Their fabrics are sold in over 80 countries and used by the world's finest tailors and fashion houses, yet every meter still meets the exacting standards that have defined VBC since 1663.
This combination of historic authenticity and modern capability resonates deeply with TS Custom Suits. We honor traditional bespoke tailoring techniques while leveraging modern technology through our virtual consultation process, making these time-honored traditions accessible to contemporary gentlemen.
The Biella Advantage: Location Matters
To understand VBC's excellence, you must understand why Biella became the world capital of fine wool fabrics. This isn't coincidence—it's geography, water, and centuries of accumulated expertise combining to create the perfect environment for textile production.
Pure Alpine Water: The Secret Ingredient
The Biella region sits at the foot of the Italian Alps, where mountain streams provide water of exceptional purity. This water is crucial for washing raw wool, removing natural oils and impurities while preserving the fibers' essential characteristics. The mineral composition of Biella's water is ideal for wool processing—soft enough not to damage delicate fibers, yet capable of thoroughly cleansing them.
VBC's Pratrivero mill sits on the Sessera stream, which has provided consistent, pure water for 370 years. The company has invested heavily in protecting this water source, implementing environmental initiatives that ensure future generations will have access to the same pristine water that has made their fabrics legendary.
Generations of Textile Expertise
Biella isn't just about water—it's about people. The region has been home to wool workers for centuries, with knowledge and skills passed through families much like the Barberis family itself. This concentration of expertise creates an ecosystem where innovation happens naturally, where skilled workers understand wool at an instinctive level, and where quality standards are cultural norms rather than written specifications.
When VBC hires workers, they're often employing third or fourth-generation textile workers whose grandfathers and great-grandfathers worked in the same mills. This continuity of knowledge is invaluable—these workers can identify quality issues by touch, can anticipate how fabrics will behave during finishing, and bring intuitive understanding that cannot be taught from textbooks.
Complete Vertical Integration
VBC controls every step of fabric production within their Biella facilities—from raw wool arrival to finished fabric shipping. This vertical integration provides several critical advantages:
Quality Control - When every process occurs under one company's management, quality standards remain consistent throughout production. There are no weak links, no suppliers who might compromise on quality to save costs.
Innovation Capability - Controlling the entire process allows VBC to experiment and innovate at every stage, developing new techniques that enhance their fabrics' performance without relying on outside suppliers' cooperation.
Efficiency and Responsiveness - Vertical integration eliminates delays and miscommunications that occur when multiple companies must coordinate. VBC can respond quickly to changes in demand or custom fabric requests.
Environmental Responsibility - Managing the complete process allows comprehensive environmental initiatives rather than hoping suppliers share your values. VBC's sustainability programs cover every stage from wool washing to fabric finishing.
The VBC Difference: What Makes Their Fabrics Exceptional
With 370 years of experience, VBC has mastered every aspect of wool fabric creation. Here's what sets their fabrics apart:
Wool Selection and Sourcing
VBC sources merino wool from Australia, New Zealand, and South Africa—the world's premier wool-producing regions. Their buyers personally inspect wool lots, selecting only fibers that meet strict standards for fineness, length, strength, and consistency. These relationships with top wool producers span decades, ensuring consistent access to the finest fibers available.
The company purchases different qualities of wool for different fabric collections, matching fiber characteristics to intended use. Business suit fabrics might use Super 120s-140s wools that balance softness with durability, while luxury collections feature Super 150s-180s for maximum refinement. This strategic sourcing ensures that every VBC fabric is optimized for its purpose.
Washing and Scouring Excellence
Raw wool contains natural oils, dirt, and vegetable matter that must be removed before processing. VBC's washing facilities use the pure Sessera stream water to gently cleanse wool while preserving the fibers' natural characteristics. This process requires expertise—wash too aggressively and you damage fibers; wash too gently and impurities remain.
The washing water is carefully temperature-controlled and treated with biodegradable cleansing agents. After washing, the water undergoes purification before returning to the stream cleaner than when it entered the mill—a testament to VBC's environmental commitment.
Spinning Mastery
VBC's spinning facilities transform clean wool into yarns of remarkable consistency and fineness. Their equipment can spin superfine yarns from Super 100s to Super 200s, producing threads that feel impossibly soft yet maintain surprising strength.
The spinning process requires precise control of tension, twist, and speed. Too much twist creates harsh, wiry yarn; too little produces weak yarn that will pill and break. VBC's operators, many from textile families spanning generations, adjust machines constantly to achieve optimal results for each wool quality.
Dyeing Expertise
VBC's dyeing facilities produce colors of exceptional depth, consistency, and fastness. Their seasonal palettes range from classic business tones—navy, charcoal, various grays—to contemporary fashion colors, each shade developed with meticulous attention to how it appears in different lighting and how it ages with wear.
The company uses only environmentally safe dyes and has eliminated heavy metals and harmful chemicals from their dyeing processes. This commitment to safe chemistry doesn't compromise color quality—VBC colors are renowned for their richness and their ability to maintain vibrancy through years of wear.
Weaving Technology
VBC's weaving facilities represent the perfect marriage of tradition and technology. They maintain some traditional shuttle looms for special fabrics while employing state-of-the-art rapier looms for their main collections. This flexibility allows them to produce everything from classic plain weaves to complex patterns and innovative textures.
The precision of VBC's weaving creates fabrics with perfect consistency—crucial for bespoke tailoring where every meter must perform identically. Whether you're purchasing three meters for a suit or ten meters for multiple garments, the fabric quality remains constant.
Finishing Innovation
After weaving, VBC fabrics undergo finishing processes that enhance their natural qualities and add performance characteristics. These treatments might include:
Brushing and Raising - Creating soft surface textures that enhance comfort and warmth.
Pressing and Calendering - Achieving smooth, lustrous surfaces for dress fabrics.
Performance Treatments - Adding water resistance, wrinkle recovery, or other functional properties without compromising the fabric's natural characteristics.
Quality Inspection - Every meter of fabric is inspected for flaws, with imperfect sections removed before shipping. This final quality control ensures that what reaches our tailors at TS Custom Suits meets VBC's historic standards.
The VBC Collections: Excellence Across Every Category
With the world's largest selection of wool fabrics, VBC offers collections for every need, preference, and occasion:
Super Wool Collections
Super 100s-120s - The foundation of VBC's business suit fabrics, these wools offer excellent durability while feeling refined and comfortable. Perfect for daily business wear, these fabrics resist wrinkles, maintain their shape, and look professional through demanding days. Many of our clients' first bespoke suits feature these versatile fabrics.
Super 130s-150s - Stepping up in refinement, these fabrics offer enhanced softness and drape while remaining durable enough for regular wear. The finer fibers create fabrics that feel more luxurious while maintaining the resilience necessary for business suits. This range represents the sweet spot between luxury and practicality.
Super 160s-180s - Reserved for special occasions and clients seeking ultimate luxury, these superfine fabrics offer incomparable softness and elegance. The hand-feel is extraordinary—so soft it's difficult to believe you're touching wool. While more delicate than coarser fabrics, VBC's expertise ensures these fabrics perform reliably when properly cared for.
Super 200s - At the pinnacle of VBC's offerings, Super 200s fabrics represent the absolute finest wools available. These are showpiece fabrics for clients who simply want the best, regardless of cost. The 13-micron fibers create a fabric of almost unbelievable softness and refinement.
Four Season Collections
All Season Range - These versatile fabrics work beautifully year-round in most climates, combining breathability for warm weather with insulating properties for cooler temperatures. The weave structures are engineered to adapt to changing conditions, making them ideal for clients who want maximum versatility from their wardrobe.
Traveller Collection - Designed specifically for frequent travelers, these fabrics resist wrinkles remarkably well, recover quickly from being packed, and maintain their appearance even after long flights and hotel stays. Performance doesn't compromise luxury—Traveller fabrics feel as refined as traditional wools while outperforming them in real-world conditions.
Seasonal Specialties
Summer Weights - Lightweight fabrics specifically designed for warm weather, using open weaves and fine yarns that promote air circulation. These fabrics prove that summer suits can be both comfortable and elegant, maintaining structure while keeping you cool.
Winter Weights - Heavier fabrics with enhanced warmth for cold climates, often incorporating subtle brushing or napping that creates insulating air pockets while feeling luxuriously soft.
Mohair Blends - Combining wool's warmth with mohair's natural luster and breathability, these fabrics have a distinctive sheen and crisp hand perfect for summer suiting and tropical climates.
Cashmere Blends - Mixing superfine wool with cashmere creates fabrics of extraordinary softness ideal for cool-weather suits and elegant evening wear. These blends offer ultimate luxury for clients seeking the finest materials.
Innovation Collections
Stretch Fabrics - Incorporating natural stretch through innovative yarn construction and weave techniques, these fabrics enhance comfort and ease of movement without looking or feeling like "stretch" fabrics. The stretch is subtle and natural, improving the wearing experience while maintaining traditional elegance.
Performance Treatments - VBC offers various performance enhancements—water resistance, stain protection, enhanced wrinkle recovery—applied through finishing treatments that don't compromise the fabric's natural characteristics. These innovations make suits more practical for modern life without sacrificing luxury.
Easy Care Options - For clients who prefer machine-washable suits or want minimal maintenance requirements, VBC offers specially treated fabrics that withstand home care while maintaining their appearance. These fabrics expand the accessibility of custom tailoring to clients who might otherwise hesitate due to care concerns.
Why TS Custom Suits Partners with VBC
At TS Custom Suits, we could partner with any fabric mill in the world. We feature Vitale Barberis Canonico prominently because their fabrics consistently deliver the quality, value, and versatility our clients deserve.
Unmatched Selection
With the world's largest collection of wool fabrics, VBC ensures we can find the perfect fabric for every client's needs, preferences, and budget. Whether someone wants an entry-level Super 110s for their first suit or a luxurious Super 180s for a special occasion, VBC offers options that excel.
Consistent Quality
VBC's quality control systems and centuries of expertise ensure that every meter of fabric meets identical standards. This consistency is crucial for bespoke tailoring—we need to know exactly how the fabric will behave during construction and wear. With VBC, we have that confidence.
Exceptional Value
VBC fabrics offer remarkable value—not the lowest price, but excellent quality relative to cost. Their scale advantages and vertical integration allow them to offer fine fabrics at prices that make luxury tailoring accessible to more clients. This democratization of quality aligns with our mission to make bespoke suits accessible through virtual consultations.
Heritage and Innovation
We appreciate that VBC honors their 370-year heritage while continually innovating. They respect traditional craftsmanship while embracing technologies that improve performance and sustainability. This balance mirrors our own approach—honoring bespoke tailoring traditions while using technology to make these traditions accessible.
Reliability and Partnership
VBC's consistent quality, reliable delivery, and excellent customer service make them ideal partners. They provide technical support, fabric care guidance, and expertise that helps us serve our clients better. It's a true partnership, not just a supplier relationship.
What Makes VBC Perfect for Bespoke Tailoring
When our master tailors work with VBC fabrics, we're working with materials specifically engineered for tailored garments:
Beautiful Drape and Handle
VBC fabrics drape naturally on the body, creating clean lines and elegant silhouettes that define exceptional tailoring. The fabrics hang properly without excessive manipulation, allowing our tailors to achieve refined fits efficiently.
Responsive to Traditional Techniques
Despite modern innovations, VBC fabrics respond beautifully to traditional hand-tailoring techniques. They hold shape during construction, accept hand-stitching cleanly, and can be molded using time-honored pressing methods.
Real-World Performance
A bespoke suit must perform in real life. VBC's focus on quality and performance means their fabrics resist wrinkles through long days, maintain appearance during travel, and continue looking sharp through regular wear.
Longevity and Durability
VBC fabrics are engineered for long-term performance. The quality of their wools, precision of construction, and effectiveness of finishing create fabrics that maintain their appearance and structure through years of wear. This longevity makes a VBC suit a genuine investment.
The VBC Experience at TS Custom Suits
When you choose a bespoke suit from TS Custom Suits featuring VBC fabric, your experience includes:
Comprehensive Needs Assessment
We begin by understanding your lifestyle, climate, and how you'll wear your suit. This assessment guides us toward specific VBC collections that match your requirements perfectly.
Education on Fabric Grades
Many clients are curious about Super numbers and what they mean. We explain the differences between Super 110s, 150s, and 180s, helping you understand trade-offs between luxury and durability so you can make informed decisions.
Visual Fabric Presentation
Through virtual consultation, we show you actual VBC fabric samples, allowing you to see weave, color, and texture clearly. This visual element is crucial for confident decision-making.
Climate and Activity Considerations
We discuss your local climate, travel patterns, and daily activities to recommend VBC fabrics that perform optimally in your specific conditions. The right fabric for Minnesota winter differs from Florida summer, and we ensure you select appropriately.
Style and Color Guidance
With your chosen collection identified, we explore available colors and patterns, selecting options that work with your existing wardrobe, personal style, and the occasions you'll wear your suit.
Long-Term Care Education
After your suit is complete, we provide specific care instructions for VBC fabrics, including pressing recommendations, cleaning frequency, and storage guidance to maximize your suit's lifespan.
Italian Heritage Meets Modern Accessibility
Traditionally, accessing VBC fabrics for bespoke tailoring required visiting prestigious tailors in major metropolitan areas. At TS Custom Suits, we've transformed this experience through our innovative virtual consultation process.
We bring VBC's extensive collection directly to you, guiding you through selection with expertise you'd receive in a traditional showroom. The result is a custom bespoke suit that combines 370 years of Italian textile mastery, expert craftsmanship, and modern convenience.
For clients in Northeast Florida or those visiting Jacksonville, we welcome you to our private showroom at Hidden Hills Golf and Country Club, where you can experience our complete VBC collection in person.
Sustainability and Environmental Stewardship
VBC's commitment to environmental responsibility is comprehensive and genuine:
Water Management - Their closed-loop water systems recycle and purify water used in production, returning water to the Sessera stream cleaner than when it entered the mill.
Renewable Energy - Significant investment in hydroelectric power and solar energy reduces the carbon footprint of their production facilities.
Chemical Safety - VBC has eliminated harmful chemicals from their processes, using only environmentally safe alternatives that protect both workers and the environment.
Waste Reduction - Innovative processes minimize waste throughout production, with scraps and byproducts recycled or repurposed rather than discarded.
Transparency - VBC publishes environmental data and submits to third-party auditing, demonstrating genuine commitment rather than greenwashing.
When you choose a VBC suit from TS Custom Suits, you're supporting a supply chain built on environmental stewardship and social responsibility.
Investment in Italian Excellence
Vitale Barberis Canonico fabrics offer exceptional value across their range. Whether you're investing in your first bespoke suit or adding to an established wardrobe, VBC provides quality that justifies the investment through years of excellent performance.
When you invest in a VBC bespoke suit from TS Custom Suits, you're making a decision that will reward you every time you wear it. You'll experience confidence from wearing fabrics with 370 years of heritage, comfort from materials engineered for performance, and satisfaction from owning a garment that represents the pinnacle of Italian textile craftsmanship.
More Than Fabric: A Legacy of Excellence
What we admire most about Vitale Barberis Canonico is their ability to honor history while remaining relevant and innovative. For 370 years and fifteen generations, the Barberis family has maintained unwavering commitment to quality while adapting to changing technologies, tastes, and market demands.
This philosophy mirrors our own at TS Custom Suits. We honor traditional bespoke tailoring techniques that have created exceptional suits for centuries, while embracing technology that makes these traditions accessible to modern gentlemen. We believe quality is timeless, but delivery methods can evolve.
When VBC's fabrics meet our tailoring expertise, the result represents the best of both companies—Italian heritage combined with American innovation, traditional craftsmanship delivered through modern convenience.
Begin Your VBC Experience
Three hundred seventy years of textile excellence is waiting to become part of your wardrobe. Whether you need a versatile Super 120s for daily business wear, a luxurious Super 150s for important occasions, or an innovative Traveller fabric for frequent flying, VBC offers collections that will exceed your expectations.
Order your Bespoke Suit Package today and discover why Vitale Barberis Canonico has been the choice of discerning gentlemen for nearly four centuries. During your virtual consultation, ask specifically about our VBC collections, and our expert tailors will guide you toward the perfect fabric for your needs, lifestyle, and preferences.
Your journey to experiencing the world's oldest and largest fine wool mill begins with a single decision. Make it today, and discover how VBC fabrics can transform your wardrobe with Italian heritage, unmatched quality, and timeless elegance.
About TS Custom Suits: We are a premier online bespoke tailoring service featuring the world's finest fabrics, including extensive collections from Vitale Barberis Canonico. Through our innovative virtual consultation process and expert craftsmanship, we bring 370 years of Italian textile excellence and traditional bespoke tailoring directly to discerning gentlemen nationwide and internationally. From our private showroom in Jacksonville, FL, we create suits that honor heritage, embrace quality, and deliver exceptional value—ensuring every client experiences the perfect combination of Italian craftsmanship and impeccable fit.